The ‘nature’ of fashion

PUJA GUPTA
New Delhi, Oct 17 (IANSlife)
Ace couturiers like Shyamal & Bhumika, national-award winner Nachiket Bharve, among others presented their latest creation on the final day of the Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with the FDCI.
Shyamal and Bhumika’s took inspiration from nature’s beauty, Indian history as well as traditions and ancient architecture like royal courts and museums to create their new line-up called the ‘Blooms of Paradise’.
Hand embroidery with antique finish metallic threads appeared amongst pearls, beads and multi-hued resham. Techniques like resham aari, silk-zardozi, metal thread peeta, knotting and sequinning were used along with beadwork, silk thread and crystals.
The duo chose handwoven raw silk, matka silk, sheer silk organza, tulle along with hand-dyed velvet in hues like English rose pink, muted ivory, deep powder blue and moved to emerald, dusty mint, orchid, pearl, cannoli-cream, olive to finally end with sage, sky, lunar grey and midnight blue.
For women, the designers offered ensembles like shararas, draped skirts with jackets, shift kurtas, capes over jumpsuits and lehengas with jackets. Silhouettes pointed to draped, flared, paneled lehengas, corsets, flouncy voluminous sleeves, off-shoulder accents, empire lines, dhoti pants, constructed saris and some trailing dupattas.
For men, there were embroidered cropped kurtas with circular hemlines, along with jackets, double-breasted bundies and draped styles.
Actress Yami Gautam walked as the showstopper, wearing a pastel, paneled, flared, lehenga, with floral motifs, paired with a shimmering, corset choli and tulle dupatta.
Barve, who recently made headlines for winning the National Award for costume designing in the movie “Tanhaji”, came up with his contemporary festival collection called ‘Ephermera’.
Inspired by the “patterns of the ocean, tides on shores, along with meteor showers in the sky, blooms, sea anemones and tidal currents”, the couturier used of cutwork, thread embroidery, sequins work, appliqu and beading to add texture to the ensembles.
Upcycled fabrics and trims from previous seasons we repurposed to create the collection. Air organza, silks, velvets and chiffons were used to form floor-length swirling gowns and capes, cocktail-wear lehengas, jumpsuits, separates and sari gowns.
The highlights of his show was the floor-sweeping ensemble with a off-shoulder bodice, and the sheer asymmetric cape with appliqu’s work, over bralette and matching trousers. For men, Barve restricted the options to black, embroidered, bundie, buttonless jacket, kurta, sheer shirt, and trousers.
Huma Qureshi ended the show in great style wearing a dazzling, magenta, heavily, encrusted, embroidered lehenga and long-sleeved choli complemented with a matching, sheer, organza, ruffled, dupatta.
Day 5 of LFW x FDCI also saw Bollywood actors Shamita Shetty walk for designer Rina Dhaka, Alaya F for Nikita Mhaisalkar, Bhagyashree Patwardhan for Sanjukta Dutta.
Babil Irrfan Khan debuted on the ramp for menswear designer Pawan Sachdeva, while Mrunal Thakur walked for the grand finale for Rajesh Pratap Singh.

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